ChewsWise Blog

ChewsWise Blog

Desire, not Guilt, to Do (or Eat) the Right Thing

Mark Powell over at BlogFish had a very interesting post on the role of desire - rather than guilt - in getting consumers aboard the sustainable seafood cause.

We tell stories of impending crisis so they’ll stop out of fear, or wetry to make rules that stop the damage by denying people their desires. Conserve water or we’ll run out and you won’t be able to flush your toilet! Stop driving your SUV or we’ll all cook together on a warming earth! Etc., you’ve heard it before.

It’s a reasonable way to go, but it isn’t working. And perhaps even worse, it creates problems for the environmental movement. It casts us as the enemies of human desire, not a good role to be in.

Mark's essay speaks to a broader issue that food advocates confront, which involves changing habits. And the best way that can be done is by creating new desires - whether for new (sustainable) fish they haven't yet eaten, fresh local food, slow food or what have you. But I imagine the purveyors of guilt won't be happy with this message. I'm not sure I'm convinced either.

Maybe the point is, convincing people takes desire (a taste of that rich dark, fair trade, organic chocolate bar) but it works especially well when people see the flip side (of child laborers picking cocoa in the Ivory Coast).

- Samuel Fromartz

USDA Kills Grass-Based Research Program

In the Bush administration's proposed budget, a well-regarded grass-based research program at State College, PA, got the ax. A letter from the researchers states:

The research program at University Park seeks to develop profitable and sustainable animal, crop, and bioenergy producing enterprises while maintaining the quality of ground and surface waters. The loss of this research unit would end cutting edge research on nutrient management, forage and grazing land management, water quality, integrated farming systems, and bioenergy cropping systems for the northeastern U.S.

I know one of the researchers, Kathy Soder, who spent a lot of time explaining sustainable grazing practices to me while I was researching my book Organic Inc. In light of the growing demand for grass-fed meat and pasture-based dairy farming in the northeast, I find it incredible that this program is being killed.  We need more research into sustainable agriculture, not less. Click here for the researchers' letter about their fight to maintain funding.

Organic research has fared a bit better in the farm bill now on the Hill. The Senate allocated $16 million in mandatory money for organic research grants, while the House version of the bill only put up $5 million. The Organic Farming and Research Foundation is now lobbying to make sure the Organic Agriculture Research and Extension Initiative gets funded at the $16 million level and is looking for businesses and other organizations to sign its letter seeking this support. Contact OFRF.

Be aware that $16 million still represents less than 1 percent of the USDA's ag research budget -- even though organic farming represents 3 percent of food sales. The letter states:

This discrepancy in the share of research funding spent on organics is detrimental to an industry that relies intensively on management and information for its success. In fact, lack of knowledge is the biggest limiting factor for farmers and ranchers who are looking to take advantage of the growing organic market demand and profits that it brings.

- Samuel Fromartz

Coke's Thinking on Honest Tea Deal

Ted Mininni, a blogging brand consultant, adds a bit more context to the Honest Tea deal with Coke and the thinking of the beverage giant. "There isn’t any doubt that ready-to-drink teas are experiencing meteoric sales, much like energy drinks did a short time ago."

Thanks for pointing that out, Rob. His Murketing blog also offers insights on Goldman's interview with ChewsWise, and we look forward to his upcoming book, BUYING IN: The Secret Dialogue Between What We Buy and Who We Are

Honest Tea Founder Talks on Coke Deal

Though I took a critical look at Honest Tea's deal with Coke last week, company co-founder and CEO, Seth Goldman, agreed to chew it over with me in an interview.I worried the deal with Coke would throw Seth and his team off track, or worse. There's more than a few examples of companies that stagnated or died a slow death after a giant took them over. Seth countered that Coke will actually give Honest Tea a push in the market and revealed two new products he's launching this year. Here's the interview:

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Organic Style Rag Rises From Ashes!

RoseOrganic Style Magazine - founded by Maria Rodale, then mothballed, then sold by Rodale Inc. - has been resurrected online by Gerald Prolman, better known as the organic rose guy.

I just got the link to it, so haven't read it cover to cover (pixel to pixel?) but it looks like it's going for the same audience as Yoga Journal, without the yoga.

It has an interview with Maria Rodale and an excerpt from Amy Stewart's book, Flower Confidential, on - you guessed it - organic roses. She visits a rose farm in Equador and explains how it gets by without chemicals. This is a cozy world, for those roses end up at Prolman's company, Organic Bouquet.

My only quibble is that it's a little tricky navigating from page to page -- maybe that's the nature of this digital beast. But it's not a biggee.

May a thousand flowers bloom.

(Photo of Prolman from Organic Style)

Seth, Why'd You Sell Honest Tea to Freakin' Coke?

Honest Tea announced today that it sold a 40-percent stake to Coca-Cola Co. I've written in the past about this great company, which for 10 years has been plugging away making a tasty, all organic, less sweet bottled tea product and growing like crazy. But when the email announcing the deal landed in my in-box, I had to do a double-take.

A double-take, even though I've seen nearly every major success story in the organic world gobbled up by a mainstream player. Even though, this deal makes so much sense I want to slap myself silly. Even though, Honest Tea was immediately de-cokifying itself on the founder's blog:

While Coke is now our largest shareholder, the agreement was negotiated to ensure that Honest Tea will not be managed or controlled by Coke.  We will continue to operate as an independent business with the same leadership and mission. (my emphasis).

Seth Goldman, who co-founded this company by lugging around bottles of tea in duffel bags, has seen it all. But when I talked with him, a couple of years back, he kept making the point of how hard it was to get on store shelves.

In the $50 billion bottled drink biz, making the flavored water (tea, juice, soda, vitamin water, whatever) is the easy part. The much harder part is getting others to sell it. We're talking distribution, shelf placement, getting eyeballs in front of the drink, so that consumers can give it a chance. Because once they try it, they'll probably come back. But getting to the starting gate is really, really hard.

Seth had to claw each step of the way. A deal with beer distributors in Chicago was a major coup. Finally getting into corner bodegas in San Francisco was a score. When he made Target, that was like being on deck in the World Series. All the time, he kept looking over his shoulder, hoping that he was keeping his core customers, like Whole Foods, happy, even as he expanded beyond their universe. After all, he had to, in order to grow. And, after nearly a decade expanding, he told me he was finally, finally breaking even. Not making money. But not losing any. Yeah!

To get to this point, he brought venture investors onto the team, and they tend to look for a return on investment. Put those two elements together -- the crying need for a distribution channel and an investor pay day -- and the company's fate was sealed. A sale of equity was all but inevitable. As Seth and his co-founder, Barry Nalebuff, a Yale biz professor (both pictured above), state on their blog:

Despite our 66% annual compound growth rate (70% in 2007), we still aren’t reaching all the people we want to reach. Our business has inspired many ... but we also want to see Honest be a change agent through our own actions. When we buy 2.5 million pounds of organic ingredients, as we did in 2007, we help create demand for a more sustainable system of agriculture, one that doesn’t rely on chemical pesticides and fertilizers. But when we buy ten times that amount, we help create a market that multiplies far beyond our own purchases.  When we sell 32 million bottles and drink pouches with less than half the calories of mainstream alternatives, as we did in 2007, we help displace 2,400,000,000 empty calories.  That’s important, but when we sell ten times that number, we help lead a national shift toward healthier diets.

But hold on there Seth ... I get the bigger is greener and more healthy part. But remember, you're getting into bed with the people who put high fructose corn syrup on the map. You're selling equity to the same people you want to displace. Is there something wrong with this picture?

The risks here are obvious, ending up as so much Snapple road kill, or worse, as you recognize:

So how do we move from the ideal to the real without screwing up what we’ve created?  The world of mission-driven business is littered with entrepreneurs whose companies lost their soul or at least lost their leadership.  Whether you talk to Ben Cohen from Ben & Jerry’s or Steve Demos from Silk, they will tell you that if they could do it over again, they would have done it differently.  I am determined to make sure that never happens with Honest Tea. Our challenge is to find a partner who wants to “buy in” to our mission, rather than one who wants us to “sell out”.  Any partner that we consider must understand that the “Honest” brand stands for great-tasting, healthier beverages that are produced in a more sustainable manner.  As long as that partner buys into our approach, we welcome the opportunity to expand the scale and reach of Honest Tea.

Funny, Seth, but when I talked with Steve Demos after he sold Silk he used the same language. Dean Foods was "buying in," he wasn't "selling out." But that's before he was kicked out the door.

But, I know, I know. With ubber social capitalist Gary Hirshberg of Stonyfield on your board, you believe that this can be done. Hirshberg's argued for years he's doing it with Danone. And Coke will support your mission because your mission will make them money. Plus, you cannot remain small and independent in the drink market and survive. No one has. Can't be done.

And I know why Coke is buying you. The soda business is not just stagnant, it's shrinking. The market for bottled water and less-sweet, low-caloric drinks is going through the roof. Coke and the others need a new game in town. You're it.

But remember your name, Honest Tea? The name implies that there is something less honest or dishonest out there that is being sold, and you are the alternative. Being the alternative - it's part of your DNA.

So you have to make the case that Coke will not compromise all that your brand stands for, and has stood for, over the years. Heck, all that YOU stand for.

And that, frankly, is going to be the toughest sale of your career. Because it has less to do with selling Honest Tea than it does with selling Coke.

I wish you luck.

- Samuel Fromartz

Macabre Medical Mystery at Minnesota Meat Plant

The Times had a truly weird medical story today on a disease affecting workers at a Minnesota pork plant, apparently caused by a high-pressure air hose blasting the brains out of pig skulls. No, it's not mad cow. But you wouldn't want this neurological illness. The stuff you find out when you begin to look at the food system is beyond bizarre. (Thanks Clare for the "heads up" - so to speak).

Surf & Turf: The Good, Bad and Ugly

By now, you've probably heard about or seen the video released by the Humane Society depicting the unspeakably grotesque, not to mention, illegal, inhumane treatment of animals at a slaughterhouse in California. Workers rammed the animals with a fork lift and stun guns to try and get downer cows to stand up and qualify for a meat inspection so they could be slaughtered. This meat was destined for school lunch programs.

This video was shot by an employee working undercover with the humane organization and was so shocking it elicited a comment from the USDA Secretary. Even in the wake of Eric Schlosser's Fast Food Nation, continual scandals about e. coli in meat, repeated embargoes on US meat exports because of inadequate inspections, this type of thing occurs. The USDA is asleep at the wheel - or worse, has put on blinders to avoid the obvious.

Lest we get direly pessimistic, there was faintly encouraging news on the fish front, where more retailers are moving towards certified sustainable fisheries. The Marine Stewardship Council is the recognized certifier in this field. The Economist reports that:

Rupert Howes, the MSC’s chief executive, says that while it took seven years for the first 500 MSC-labelled products to appear, the next 500 took only another nine months.

Today there are 1,123 products with an MSC label around the world. Although consumer recognition remains low today, many wholesale buyers recognise the label, and demand for sustainably sourced fish is growing fast.

Wal-Mart has taken a major step, with one-quarter of its seafood counter now MSC certified (and prompting a mea culpa from one friend of mine). If you include fish Wal-Mart sells that are on the way to certification, that moves up to 50-60 percent. Globally, MSC certified stocks represent only 7 percent of the fish supply, but they are fast increasing -- and more importantly, putting increasing pressure on retailers to move in this direction.

With the USDA losing credibility, might a private regime similar to MSC's have more credibility in the meat market and with consumers? Will private certification schemes fill the humane vacuum? Or will we rely on assurances from the USDA that it will get things right?

- Samuel Fromartz

Watching a Bluefin Tuna's Global Travels

This scientific group has been tagging bluefin tuna and tracking their movements, back and forth across the Pacific, clocking over 45,000 miles. Click on the map to see the actual movements over time, though why a bluefin feeding off the coast of California would travel to Japan and back - twice - is beyond me. Maybe they're globalists. (Nod to SeaNotes blog for pointing this out).