ChewsWise Blog

ChewsWise Blog

Embargo, Weight Loss and the Cuban Sandwich

The Slow Cook has a provocative post on what the collapse of the Soviet Union did to Cuba: it improved the diet, according to a study in the American Journal of Epidemiology.

The Cuban economy had become highly dependent on the financial supportas well as fuel, fertilizers and pesticides provided by the Soviet regime. When that ended in 1989, Cubans had to reinvent the way they feed themselves. Nationwide, Cubans consumed one-third fewer calories and most were forced to walk or bike to work. The average Cuban lost 20 pounds, and over a period of years the country reverted to an organic system of agriculture and planted every available green space for food crops.

During the decade-long period of adjustment, the prevalence of obesity in Cuban declined from 14 percent to 7 percent. Deaths from diabetes dropped 51 percent. Deaths from heart disease declined 35 percent. Overall, Cuba's death rate was reduced by 18 percent.

Sounds like the post-Peak Oil diet... One major casualty - the beloved Cubano sandwich.

- Samuel Fromartz

Behind the O-Market

Where do organic consumers live?
Primarily in the West, according to a recent survey by Scarborough Research. Here are the top regions for organic food purchases (percentage of consumers buying organic food at least once a month in brackets).

  1. San Francisco/Oakland/San Jose (35 percent)
  2. Seattle/Tacoma (32 percent)
  3. Portland (27 percent)
  4. Washington, D.C. (26 percent)
  5. Denver (26 percent)
  6. San Diego (24 percent)
  7. Austin (23 percent)
  8. Sacramento/Stockton/Modesto (22 percent)
  9. Boston (21 percent)
  10. Phoenix (21 percent)

My take: Other surveys have shown that frequent buyers of organic food represent about 8 percent of all consumers. The figures measured here - once monthly - are a pretty low threshold and would drop sharply if they measured consumers buying at least several organic items in each trip to the store. Overall, organic sales represent about 3 percent of all supermarket purchases.

What drives purchases?
Availability. "Whole Foods and Trader Joe's have established themselves in the organics market, and as such are more popular among organics users. However, a high percentage of organics users shop prominent U.S. stores such as Wal-Mart due to its significant local market penetration," said Alisa Joseph, vice president, advertiser agency services, Scarborough Research.

My take: Surveys have shown this repeatedly. Purchases are determined by availability, though price helps too. Hence, Wal-Mart's entry into the field. This is also why the West Coast in particular has a high concentration of organic consumers: items such as fresh produce (the top segment for organic foods) are widely available.

Who are they?
The annual household income of organic consumers is $86,000 a year, 22 percent higher than the national average. They also skew toward younger families, with 19 percent more likely than the national average to be ages 18-34 and 13 percent more likely to have two or more children. 

My take: these income figures don't jive with other surveys I've seen from the Hartman Group, which has found organic consumers are close to the national median in income. Despite the widespread perception that organic shoppers are wealthier, I'm not convinced -- especially among those consumers buying very discretely, which is most. Why else would Wal-Mart rank high for purchases? As for age, I've seen other surveys that peg younger people and older consumers as more likely to buy organic food. This seems in line with those findings.

Unrepentant Foodie Makes Lunch

Today's Times had a piece on pesto that got me hungry, so I decided to make some myself. (Click the image for a slide show of the process, which begins in the garden).

Contrary to the article, I think the key to good pesto is a mortar and pestle. Why? Because a solid pounding releases moisture in the basil leaves, which means you use less olive oil. And I hate greasy noodles. It also takes less time than a food processor, since you don't have to clean up the machine. But this advice works best for a small batch, which is all I ever make these days since the stuff you make and put in the freezer doesn't compare.

I kept a loose eye on my watch during the process and found it takes about three minutes to pound basil into pesto. The key is to pound it with salt, garlic and pine nuts, which help the leaves break down. While the pasta was boiling, I made and ate a salad.

It was an extremely pleasant repast and took all of 35 minutes.

Organic History, Circa 1963

Here's one of the earliest recorded discussions of organic food by regulators in the state of California. Ray Green, manager of the organic program for the state department of agriculture, tells me he saved it on the way to the shredder. Click image to enlarge:

1963_organic_memo_2

As you can see, California took a pass on deciding what Organically Grown meant. Although Europe had earlier certification schemes defining the organic method, the first one that got traction in the US was begun by JI Rodale, through his Organic Gardening magazine in the early 1970s. (If anyone knows of anything earlier, feel free to post a comment).

Bought the Farm and Other News Bites

The Wedge Co-Op in Minneapolis, one of the oldest and largest natural food co-ops in the nation, inks a deal to buy Gardens of Eagan organic farm. The farm's owners, Martin and Atina Diffley, have farmed organically for 35 years. "Martin and I knew we didn't want to keep farming into our senior years and that our children did not want to take over the farm," said Atina Diffley. "So, in recent years, we asked, 'how can we protect the integrity of the farm without owning it?' The answer was a deal with the Wedge, which plans to run the farm as an educational center for its members and customers.

Stonyfield Farm converts its entire product line to organic, completing a 25 year dream, according to President Gary Hirshberg. The company sources its milk from Organic Valley, the dairy cooperative that has seen a huge rise in supply with the conversion of a record number of farms last year.

The Galveston County Daily News has a good read on what's driving the current price rise in conventional milk (everything from the Australian drought to demand from China). "Debbie Loman of Texas City said she stopped buying fluid milk altogether after watching prices creep up week after week. Now she buys evaporated milk and mixes it with water. 'You learn to economize,' she said."

Taste, Stress and the Rats' Choice

Basilflat

I'm often asked if "organic is better." Big question. But here's part of the answer from Harold McGee in the Times.

In a novel study, he writes, Swiss researchers offered rats identical biscuits made from organic and conventional wheat.

The rats ate significantly more of the former. The authors call this result remarkable, because they found the two wheats to be very similar in chemical composition and baking performance. In fact, the rats were better at telling the difference between organic and conventional foods than many humans have been.

Photo: basil flats

He pegs the choice to phytochemicals, healthful and potentially flavorful substances that are found at significantly higher levels in organically produced crops.

What do phytochemicals have to do with flavor? Phytochemicals are chemicals created by plants, and especially those that have effects on other creatures. Plants make many of them to defend themselves against microbes and insects: to make themselves unpalatable, counterattack the invaders and limit the damage they cause. Most of the aromas of vegetables, herbs and spices come from defensive chemicals. They may smell pleasant to us, but the plants make them to repel their mortal enemies.

Why should organic produce have higher phytochemical levels? The current theory is that because plants in organic production are unprotected by pesticides and fungicides, they are more stressed by insects and disease microbes than conventional crops, and have to work harder to protect themselves. So it makes sense that organic produce would have more intense flavors. For some reason, taste tests haven’t consistently found this to be the case.

But now the story really gets remarkable. Researchers at Clemson University exposed basil plants to a chemical, chitin, which is found in the exoskeletons of insects and crustaceans. The aim was to amp up the defensive reaction in plants by exposing them to this substance commonly found in pests. "The chitin from crab and shrimp waste is processed industrially to make a shortened form called chitosan, and this is what the Clemson food scientists used," McGee writes.

They soaked basil seeds for 30 minutes in a chitosan solution, then soaked the roots again when they transferred the seedlings to larger pots. After 45 days, they compared the chemical composition of leaves from treated and untreated plants. They found that at the optimum chitosan concentration, the antioxidant activity in treated plants was greater by more than three times. The overall production of aroma compounds was up by nearly 50 percent, and the levels of clove-like and flowery components doubled.

McGee says he is applying chitosan - commonly available as a dietary supplement - to his basil and cilantro plants, hoping for a similar effect.

What Makes a Cow Organic?

The following was written by an organic dairy farmer in Truxton,N.Y., who is also active in the Northeast Organic Dairy Farmers Association. ChewsWise welcomes comments from other organic producers or industry participants with varying points of view.

By Kathie Arnold

What makes a cow organic?  The answer has certainly been controversial over the last several years, especially when it comes to grazing cows on pasture. However, I would submit that the National Organic Program regulation, which states that all ruminants must have access to pasture, has been clear right from the start to the vast majority of organic dairy farms and certifiers.

Only a small minority of operators and certifiers took advantage of the absence of a definitively worded regulation to minimize grazing; they also loosely interpreted, if not disregarded, the several citations to pasture requirements in the USDA regulations. This failure to come to the same understanding and application as everyone else seems to stem from a profit motive—to make more organic milk for the marketplace. For example, documents that have recently come to light show that the first operation of Aurora Organic Dairy, in Platteville, Colorado, apparently started out with about 70 acres of pasture for the 5,000 cows they were transitioning.  Their self-serving interpretation of the regulation - “all ruminants must have access to pasture” - was that the livestock just needed to have access to pasture at some point in their life.

Wherever organic livestock operations have failed to provide significant pasture for to their animals, there have been other organic dairies in those same regions—Idaho, Colorado, California—that do. Geography is no excuse for withholding pasture. Rather, the practice reflects the management and set-up of the farm. If the will is there, so is the way.

The National Organic Standards Board has made recommendations on pasture for years, clarifying what "access to pasture" meant. For example, the NOSB adopted a pasture recommendation in October of 2001 that stated in part: “Ruminant livestock must have access to graze pasture during the months of the year when pasture can provide edible forage, and the grazed feed must provide a significant portion of the total feed requirements.” Anyone who could not understand that language was either not trying, or was not going to understand unless compelled by regulation or the marketplace.

Although the NOSB in 2005 recommended a minimum of 120 days grazing, that figure alone was ripe for abuse. The cows can fill up at the feed bunks in the barn or feedlot, then be put out on pasture for an hour or so and the operation can meet 1 of those 120 days. That is why organic dairy farmers have pushed to require a minimum 30% dry matter intake from pasture for the growing season, which means the cows must get 30 percent of their nutritional needs from fresh grass. With only a number of required days on pasture, but no minimum pasture intake figure, there will still be no assurance of real pasture for all organic dairy animals. These proposals are currently being considered by the USDA.

Pasture places dairy animals in their natural environment, with their feed in its fresh, natural form; it also allows for behavior that is innate to the animals.  It not only improves the health of the animals, and helps produce topsoil for the earth, but it also benefits the consumer in terms of increased quantities of healthful essential fatty acids and vitamins in milk. Pasture most surely makes a cow organic.

Organics in China & Other Blog Rants

Here's what I'm reading lately:

China Bound. Jim Harkness, the president of the Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy (who is also fluent in Mandarin), is blogging about organic food and farming from China, including a fledgling organic store with its own farm and CSA-like business in Beijing. Speaking to a store clerk, Harkness reports: "I ask how he likes working for an organic business and he said, 'It’s wonderful!' And then, with a dramatic gesture sweeping his hand across his face, 'They’ve torn away the masks!' When I looked puzzled, he explained that most people hide their problems, cover up bad news or talk behind other peoples’ backs. 'Here if something’s wrong we have to acknowledge it and deal with it.'” Sounds a bit different from recent China headines.

Sustainable Business? Mark Powell, who works at the Ocean Conservancy making sure fish have a future, blogged from a Stanford Business School seminar on business strategies for environmental sustainability. Specifically, he looked at the possibilities of collaboration between environmental groups and corporations. "Flexibility of mind may be the hardest thing to ask people to do. If you've always hated big business, then you need to spend some time with people who work in big business. I assure you, they're not as evil as you think. If environmental groups leave you angry, then find someone who can talk about the real goals of the environmental movement. It's not the end of corporations, even though some people might say that."

Small Farm Voice. Simon Huntley, who has a novel venture setting up web sites for small farms, blogs about the difficultly of principled small-scale farming. "People want adjective-laden food (micro, local, sustainable, et al) instead of chemical-laden food, but it takes extra care and smaller scale to bring these products to the marketplace. Small farms are well suited to the task of producing high-quality food, but the costs are higher. Will Americans pay the extra price that sustainable, small-scale production requires? If not, can farmers find a way to bring down the price to point that the general public can pay? Or failing the first two options, will farmers be forced to scale up to survive?" My humble opinion: The answer to these questions is yes, yes and yes. There is no single monolithic market or producer but many producers that can meet our various needs. Let a thousand organic flowers bloom.

Rural Divisions. Bruce Cole, who edits Edible San Francisco, directs us in this engaging post to John Ikerd, who is the Professor Emeritus of Agricultural Economics, University of Missouri. Ikerd exposes what CAFOs (Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations) are doing to rural America. "CAFOs completely disrupt the community life of rural people. Some have labeled this the most divisive rural issue since the Civil War. In many communities, multigenerational family farmers are leading the opposition, often pitting neighbor against neighbors who have been their friends for years." (Thanks Tana!).

Holy Cow! And for a more spiritually enlightening take on the Aurora Dairy dust up, check out Amanda's post on Ethicurean, "Confessions of an Organic Mega-Dairy."

Organic Diary Farmers Blast USDA, Aurora

The Federation of Organic Dairy Farmers (FOOD Farmers) issued a blistering attack (pdf) on the USDA and Aurora Organic Dairy (AOD) Tuesday, criticizing the plea bargain they had reached settling 14 alleged violations of the organic regulations by Aurora. The charges were made in a publicly released letter to Acting Agriculture Secretary Chuck Conner.

FOOD Farmers is a coalition of the three main organic dairy producer associations in the US, including the Northeast Organic Dairy Producers Association, the Midwest Organic Dairy Producers Association and the Western Organic Dairy Producers Association (of which Aurora is a member).

The letter states:

We are extremely disturbed by the Consent Agreement between USDA and AOD for many reasons. It does not bring closure to this situation. If Aurora is guilty of these alleged violations and is allowed to not only continue in operation but to continue with no sanction ... they should be de-certified and fined to the full extent. Given the “nature and extent” of the alleged violations which continued over 3 ½ years, any fine of AOD should be the maximum amount allowed by law and AOD should not be permitted to ship organic milk for five years, in accordance with section 205.662 of the NOP regulations on noncompliance.

205.662(g) states that “In addition to suspension or revocation, any certified operations that: (1) Knowingly sells or labels a product as organic, except in accordance with the Act, shall be subject to a civil penalty of not more that $10,000 per violation.” The regulation does not say “may” but rather it says “shall” which would indicate that fines are mandatory. If Aurora is not guilty of the alleged violations, they should be cleared of any violation and confidence in NOP’s ability to enforce the organic standards will be restored.

The group stated that the agreement sets an "unacceptable precedent," since it shows that "major, multiple violations occurring over several years" can be negotiated away without penalty. Further, given the fact that smaller dairies have been de-certified for non-compliance, it can be viewed as "preferential treatment for a large-scale operation."

The statement is significant, not only because FOOD Farmers represent the vast majority of organic dairy farmers but also because it offers insights into the working of the organic market, regulations and USDA behavior in this case.

In another development, the Cornucopia Institute disclosed that Aurora has threatened to sue Cornucopia, the Organic Consumers Association and the Center for Food Safety for defamation for charging the company engaged in consumer fraud.

Expect more fireworks ahead.

- Samuel Fromartz