Everything he does in the organic world is authentic and truthful.
There is no pretense. When he offers you an appetizer composed of
simple vegetables dewy with liquid salt, he is saying something to you.
He converses with one of the things that I love in gastronomy: the
essence of the produce. These are culinary preparations that retain the
soul of the food. You discover and decipher the workings of that
language — sometimes simple, sometimes complex — during the meal. It is
a playful dialogue because we enjoy eating it.